Thom Browne's Radiant Revival During New York Fashion Week

Couture, tailoring and poise in a winter wonderland universe.

POSTED BY ANDREI LUCAS

Following a hiatus, Thom Browne made a triumphant return to New York Fashion Week, captivating audiences with his grand finale show

His last runway appearance was in July, marking his couture debut at the Opera Garnier in Paris, where he showcased his signature theatrical style.

Today, Browne reclaimed the spotlight at the Shed in Hudson Yards, revisiting the venue where he previously presented his collection inspired by Edgar Allen Poe's iconic poem, "The Raven."

Renowned for his storytelling prowess, Browne, now serving as the chairman of the Council of Fashion Designers of America, has consistently staged his shows in remarkable settings such as cathedrals and gardens. 

This time, the stage was set with an enigmatic winter ambiance, featuring a model transformed into tree sculpture wearing a puffer jacket, guarding the yarn and evoking a sense of mystery and renewal.

An outstanding theme 

The show's underlying themes sparked speculation—is it a metaphorical rebirth symbolized by butterflies emerging from a harsh winter, or perhaps a whimsical playground for children and their guardians? 

Browne's opening look, a glamorous black and white ensemble, set the tone for a narrative reminiscent of a captivating film noir.

Models striding down the runway in Thom Browne creations exude the aura of dignified headmistresses wearing couture. Their demeanor is poised yet chilling, complemented by impeccable tailoring ranging from oversized to sleek silhouettes.

As the procession unfolds, a group of children emerges from beneath the tree sculptures, entranced by the commanding presence of their adult counterparts and follow the models.

 

 

Black&white becoming a winter trend?

The collection showcased an entirely black and white blend of long, sleek lines and structured forms, with preppy button-covered purses, plastic-coated footwear, and whimsical accessories such as tights with ravens and roses.

Browne's signature logo trio of colors accentuated the modern yet timeless aesthetic of the pieces, lending a playful touch suitable for both adults and children alike.

Breaking traditional gender norms, Browne seamlessly integrates gender-neutral elements into his designs, epitomizing a fusion of timeless style.

A golden departure from winter

A brave and outstanding switch from the monochromatic palette, the show culminated in a striking gold ensemble—a symbolic representation of renewal and transformation, embodied by a goddess-like figure with golden leaves and hair resembling antennae. Queen Bee has arrived to mark the beginning of spring?

In its entirety, Thom Browne's collection transcended mere elegance and timelessness, evoking a sense of vulnerability and strength, femininity and masculinity intertwined. It served as a poignant portrayal of life's complexities, underscored by vibrant storytelling within a black-and-white aesthetic.

As Browne came out at the show's conclusion, holding a heart in a nod to Valentine's Day, he sent a poignant message—that amidst life's darkest moments, love remains a prevailing force, warming up even the coldest of winters.

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