Jeremy Scott's Most Camp Moschino Runways That Revived Maximalism

Since launching his eponymous label in 1997, American designer Jeremy Scott was dubbed ‘‘fashion’s last rebel.’’ Defiance was everywhere, from irreverent designs as seen in his debut based on J.G. Ballard's book and David Cronenberg's film Crash, with looks ranging from paper hospital gowns and garbage bag-like fabrics, to his Spring 1998 collection of flight attendant-inspired looks called ''Duty Free Glamour.''

No surprise, the German designer Karl Lagerfeld said that Scott was the only person working in fashion who could take over Chanel when he left. 

From one dare to another, dressing the legendary singer Björk on her Homogenic world tour, collaborating  with prominent labels in the sports industry, such as Adidas, which resulted in the furry sneakers with teddy bear heads, "JS Bears," in 2008, being the author of Britney Spears’  air hostess outfit in the Grammy Award Winning “Toxic” video, and a partnership with Swiss watchmaker Swatch in 2011, his unconventional demeanor continued to fuel his success.

Unconventionality that led to his appointment as Moschino's new creative director in 2013. If Scott's brand reputation was already impressive, his entrance into the Italian label was even more so. Moschino's story was unmistakable. Its founder, Franco Moschino, was innovative and non-conformist.

Once the label was founded in the eighties, his name became synonymous with exaggeration and eccentricity in fashion. And Jeremy Scott was no stranger to these.

By incorporating what was considered tacky, Jeremy Scott succeeded Franco's throne as The King of Camp – with the defense that he just wanted to have fun. 

Since the designer's birthday was on August 10th, here's a retrospective of Jeremy Scott's most camp collections during his tenure at Moschino, which he departed in 2023.

Fall/Winter 2014 

In Scott's debut at Moschino, reports claimed the show was late. It was ironic, considering the theme explored in the collection once it started: fast food. It could have been a coincidence or a display of his cheeky irony for which the designer is now so well known.

As the show began, models graced the runway in vibrant yellow and red lady-suits,sweaters, dresses,blouses and pants  with giant M's printed on them, resembling the infamous McDonald's franchise – but alluding to Moschino's initials.

Dresses with cow prints that read "drink Moschino" were also featured with Chanel-like jackets, as were bags that resembled Happy Meal boxes. From funky leather and denim pieces to frivolous SpongeBob SquarePants-themed apparel, including sweaters, tops, trench coats and fur coats, it seemed like the food story was over.

But then cereals, chocolate, crackers, chips, candy and a popcorn dress that did pop took over the show – not to mention the closing look, a nutritional label ball gown. 

The show caused a stir. "This is about taking something trashy and making something that you’ll treasure forever," said the designer backstage. Even though delivering a happy meal, many critics and insiders weren't pleased with Scott’s debut – but it made some reflected on the glorification of fast food and consumer culture.

Anyway, shortly after, The Guardian dubbed Jeremy Scott as ''pop culture’s most irreverent designer.''

Spring/Summer 2015

Before Greta Gerwig released her acclaimed film ''Barbie,'' Jeremy Scott had already exclaimed, ''Hi, Barbie! The Spring/Summer 2015 show opened with a model with platinum blonde hair, coral lips, and a fuschia leather jacket and skirt, a clear nod to the iconic Mattel doll.

All-pink looks kept this in mind as did the introduction of new Barbies – the exercise diva, the joyful rollerblader, and the traveler icon. More color entered the stage when a Barbie appeared in a white outfit with printed colorful doll clothes.

Following that was a doll in a hippie black multicolored floral dress, followed by model Frida Assen in a pastel green look à la Jackie O. A wave of colorful and fun 70's looks arrived – like a bubblegum pink bomber jacket and pants that fully embraced the seventies dance vibe –, followed by avant-garde jackets and skirts with printed bikinis.

Barbie's extensive Moschino wardrobe also included pieces perfect for a day at the beach or a spa session. With lady suits and more sophisticated yet daring looks – like the Versace-esque gold leather ensembles – '80s prom-like dresses graced the runway, proving that no matter the occasion, this Barbie always has fun. 

Spring/Summer 2016 

If the previous collection with Barbie gave us the idea that we could be anything, the Spring/Summer 2016 collection reinforced it. In a collection called "No Parking, Couture Zone," bright oranges, neon yellows, grays, blacks, and whites put construction women on a mood-boosting loop.

But work doesn't cancel out their grace. From Chanel-esque suits in the bright color of cones and reflective vests, a series of garments that read "Caution," dresses and blouses with sayings like "Slippery when wet," a "Shop" sign, and a "Do Not Enter" bag, to prints of construction materials that formed a caricatured Chanel logo, functionality and charm were on full display.

To keep it light, there was also a good dose of humor. Think dresses and trench coats with words in cartoon fonts, a turquoise jacket from The Powerpuff Girls with pants full of ads, coupons, cartoons, and printed products that added a touch of the consumer culture Scott had been exploring with his joyful manner.

But back to work and professional multitasking, model Bella Hadid hit the runway in a "Fresh" blouse and a Moschino perfume bottle that mimicked a spray cleaner. Then came a model in a baby blue latex-like dress and a Fresh fragrance bag. In the same cleaning terms, a line of fringed cape dresses in various colors emerged, as well as model Imaan Hamman in a yellow feather dress followed by other models in various frilled colorful looks.

Gowns that resembled other washing products, vintage car details, and a navy blue dress with a sign that said "Car Wash" emphasized all the hard work. Imagine all the heavy labor involved.

Spring/Summer 2017

For the Spring/Summer 2017 collection, models were transformed into real-life paper dolls, an inexpensive children's toy frequently seen in past advertisements and magazines.

The show started with Gigi Hadid in a white dress with a female silhouette, wearing a bra and underwear print. The following looks had white tape that mimicked the paper dolls' bands – see Bella Hadid in a black dress with a gold Moschino belt and peace symbol necklace, Taylor Hill in a polka dot blouse and black tailored pants, or Elsa Hosk in a paper-style hat and bikini carrying a towel and bag.

In the same spirit, drama paper doll-like gowns graced the runway, such as Elsa Hosk in a white cocktail dress à la Marilyn Monroe in ''The Seven Itch,'' Romee Strijd in a strapless baby pink adorned with mini stars, and Irika Shawk closing the show in a vibrant draping-detail blue gown.

Besides the ode to the toy, Jacqueline Susann's book and Mark Robson's movie ''The Valley of The Dolls'' were also homaged, seen in dresses with pill prints as seen in model Imaan Hamman. 

Spring/Summer 2018

In Spring/Summer 2018, what started as a dreamy-meets-punk show – see Kaia Gerber opening the show in a leather jacket, boots, and hat with a unicorn tee and a feathered skirt in the same shade of blue, or Bella Hadid in fishnet thighs, a black tutu skirt, and a pink unicorn shirt – suddenly became a blooming garden.

 Gigi Hadid, first seen in a strapless pink dress with feathers and a biker leather jacket with a few metallic spikes, closed the show as a flower bouquet. Model Yasmin Wijnaldum stepped out as an orange butterfly, while Joan Smalls wore a full rose skirt.

Perhaps the metal spikes on the leather garments at first glance were just flower thorns that later revealed their beautiful side. 

Fall/Winter 2018

For Fall/Winter 2018, from Kaia Gerber and Adut Akech's 60s looks and Gigi Hadid's aqua glam dress to Soo Joo Park and other models' vibrant shades of painted skin, Jacqueline Kennedy's signature pillbox hats and lady suits and glitz gowns meet Area 51 and conspiracy theories. Otherworldly fun. 

Spring/Summer 2019 

When a child picks up a white sheet of paper and starts scribbling, it's unlikely to look good. But when Jeremy Scott presents a collection of white looks with crayon-like " drawings ", they belong in a gallery.

Dresses, tights, and suits gained bright colors and fun accessories like matching gloves and hats. From Kendall Jenner in a strapless black-and-pink dress with a trail in the back to Duckie Thot in a chic black-and-red suit, all the sketches looked promising.

But then Scott's atelier was even richer: pieces with needles, thimbles, fringes, a scissor dress, and back details that mimicked rolls of cardboard – Yasmin Wijnaldum threw her roll on the floor creating a cult moment –, showed the designer's eclecticism of inspiration. 

Spring/Summer 2020 

In the Spring/Summer 2020 collection, Jeremy Scott flirted with art, evoking the works of Pablo Picasso. With cubism and vibrant shades meeting bull masks and flamenco dresses, the influence couldn't be clearer.

Additionally, musical instruments, as seen in Adut Akech's golden violin dress and Yasmin Wijnaldum's strapless mini black gown with a multi-colored guitar attached, interacted with paint – as in Ajok Madel trompe l'oeil white dress or when Cara Taylor became both painting and frame.

Fall/Winter 2020 

While Sofia Coppola's 2006 film "Marie Antoinette'' may have featured Kristen Dunst uttering the infamous "let them eat cake" line, Jeremy Scott was more into "let them eat fashion".

But it all had a streetwear twist – seen in denim clothes, fearless leather jackets, and hooded dresses. But the highlight was the pannier gowns, seen on models such as Yoon Young Bae in a black and white dress with black boots,Kaia Gerber in a white floral print number with pink thigh-high boots, and Sacha Quenby in a cream and gold strapless gown with matching long boots.

Some of them – as modeled by models like Bella Hadid and Joan Smalls – even resembled frosting details, prompting that after all, they might eat cake too.

Spring/Summer 2023 

Reflecting that in life, we sometimes feel like we're drowning, Jeremy Scott sought to bring us a collection that would lift us up in those moments – literally. Each piece, be it a dress or a suit, was given a buoy. From subtle buoy hearts in blazers to exaggerated floats in the waist of a skirt, the perfect wardrobe for a week on the sea has been created.

Sometimes, gowns had more buoying than fabric – as seen in Felice Noordhoff's colorful animal-printed dress with three floats and Imaan Hamman's closing look. But Scott shows that sometimes all we need is something to hold us.

Fall/Winter 2023

As a punk show – perhaps even as a tribute to British revolutionary designer Vivienne Westwood who had recently passed near the collection–, Scott's farewell was nothing less than rebellious. From mohawk and spiky hairstyles to leather and denim pieces and boldly colored coats, he left just as he arrived in Moschino – defiant.