Thom Browne Spring/Summer 2023 Is A Punk Spectacle
Models put on a show by storming the runway as pretend clients.
As industry professionals and social media influencers sat waiting for the Thom Browne Spring/Summer 2023 show to begin, models ran through the door in a frantic search for seats. Acting as the brand’s clients, the models rushed down the runway while clad in head-to-toe Thom Browne. The stunt welcomed the audience to the collection in an unforgettable way and, in typical Thom Browne fashion, the show that followed was just as chaotic and innovative as its start.
The preppy yet subversive schoolboy look of Thom Browne’s past remained, now updated with nautical themes and twists on gender. Anchors decorated multicolored tweed suits, attached to chokers and ties, and covered models’ faces in large headpieces. Fitted coats with enhanced shoulder pads were paired with cropped shirts and bikini tops, balancing traditionally masculine silhouettes with traditionally feminine pieces.
In a Y2K throwback, male models wore low-waist miniskirts and tie-up shorts that bared the tops of thongs embroidered with the Thom Browne logo. Tweed-covered jockstraps peeked out from the front of the ultra-low pants, while just skin showed in the back. Updating the “Whale Tail” style of the past with a fresh perspective on genderbending clothing, the collection modernizes men's clothing to fit any interpretation of gender expression.
The styling referenced punk with gelled-up, spiked hair. Traditional tailoring met underground culture to create a shocking show that has left the industry buzzing. The fitting final piece was a pair of barely-there chaps, made of tweed mimicking denim and accessorized with a cowboy hat and thong.
Watch the SS23 show on the Thom Browne website.
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