Guram Gvasalia’s VTMNTS Made Its Runway Debut At Paris Fashion Week
The designer addresses the importance of gender equality and genderless fashion.
The show took place in a former French grocery store located on Boulevard Raspail in Paris, a sentimental choice for the designer who chose to held Vetements off-shoot brand VTMNTS’ very first show in this space closed during the pandemic. It’s a way to symbolize revival and resurgence. “With every ending comes a new beginning”
Vetements and VTMNTS are separated entities but they are not opposites. ‘Both brands exist in one Universe’ explains Guram Gvasalia. While Vetements is about deconstructing silhouettes, VTMNTS is about construction by using a mix of traditional tailorings methods and new technologies made to fit any body type.
The collection is made of 60 strong tailored silhouettes restyled in a wide range of materials and patterns. Ultra-oversized, cropped, printed, sportswear, in full denim, cashmere or leather, the collection combines modernity and traditional artisanal techniques. The focus is made on these elevated shoulders giving a powerful structure to the looks.
VTMNTS is a celebration of genderless fashion. No “for girls” or “for boys”, the collection is meant for every human being regardless of their gender expression. Androgyne silhouettes are popular on catwalks but only a few brands think about going beyond the visuals and about including actual non-binary and non-gender conforming identities to their shows.
“Menswear and womenswear terms are so outdated and old-fashioned, and not really represent how the world is developing and transforming into a better place for a or us, who do not particularly want to Identify as male or female stereotypes” explains the designer.
With VTMNTS, Guram Gvasalia aims to represent those who do not identify as women or men and who are erased from the fashion industry. “Even Fashion Weeks are still separated by only 2 genders, making no room for anyone who do not conform. That's why I felt it was time to do things differently, and to show during the main Fashion Week clothes that speak to all genders, and not merely to men or women."
Watch Guram Gvasalia's VTMNTS first Fall-Winter 2022/2023 show :
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