Oscar de la Renta Most Memorable Collections

Born in 1932 in Santo Domingo, the capital of the Dominican Republic, designer Oscar de la Renta founded his eponymous label in 1965 after working as an assistant to Cristobal Balenciaga, a pupil of Antonio Castillo at Lanvin, and a designer for Elizabeth Arden.

While you may know him as the man behind many a red carpet showstopper, he is also admired for his couture-esque ready-to-wear collections and for drawing inspiration from his culture, such as the tropical flora and bright colors of the island where he was born. 

In celebration of the legendary designer's anniversary, let's take a look back at some of his most memorable collections.

Resort 1979

Dramatic, elegant and vibrant, hats, feathers and veils met vivid florals and black gowns, lady-like refined suits, trenches and dresses with ruffled skirts that gave life to the runway. 

Spring/Summer 1983 

Refined, voluminous, floral and ideal for the summer, Oscar de la Renta showed what de la Renta's clientele wears in the summer to maintain their purest elegance: striped or polka-dot dresses, hats with lace, Capri pantsuits, light, swirling skirts, sculptural and dramatic tailoring and, to end the season on a high note, a luxurious bridal look. 

Spring/Summer 1984

Much more vibrant, a fuschia top with a bow and large ruffled sleeves and a draped green dress with embroidered gold trim graced the runway. The vibrancy memo keeps going with a colorful polka-dot dress with side tie, a red dress with ruffled trim, and a trompe l'oeil parrot, embroidered by Lesage, on the back of a blue jacket.  

Less flashy, but still vivid, were a striped top with a matching floral print skirt and a black one-shoulder evening dress with a shiny brooch. Think of it as the perfect balance of sophistication and boldness. 

Spring/Summer 1985

In a magical way, the designer has once again combined delicacy with exaggeration. When a fuschia tie-front dress is worn over a floor-length black skirt, this is clear.

The excess is still seen in a white sailor collar blouse tucked into a black skirt with red gloves, a colorful tropical print scoop neck dress, a baby blue peplum jacket with a white knee-length skirt, a floral print peasant dress with ruffled neckline and hem worn with layered necklaces, a sheer navy blouse with full sleeves and gold embroidery worn with a pleated black floor-length skirt, and a turquoise sleeveless dress with a tie front and shiny ribbons in the shoulders join the runway.

The creator's most subtle side appears in a ruffled white trumpet dress with black bows, a sheer white wrapped top with gold trim worn with matching white pants, a gray dress with white trim, a printed sequined blouse with lavender pants, a white wide lapel jacket with matching skirt, and an oversized pale pink blazer jacket with dramatic black gloves.

Fall/Winter 1986

For the Fall/Winter 1986 collection, iconic model Iman wore a purple sequined gown with black bead detailing. Other highlights include silk animal print sleeveless dresses, voluminous black skirts, oversized striped coats, a floor-length indigo velvet gown with stacked bangles, and a floral cocktail dress.  

Fall/Winter 1988

For the Fall/Winter 1988 collection, elegance and subtlety prevailed. Glossy dresses in black with gold belts, tailored pants with shiny blouses, voluminous capes with matching dresses and big hats, gave the impression. Until they didn't.

At some point, the attention-grabbing looks arrived. From model Linda Evangelista in a voluminous floral long dress with fur on the ombre, to an oversized orange coat with purple silk blouse and textured black skirt, the delicate side weighed more this time. But not for long.

Fall/Winter 1990

In a collection that featured a stitched floral coat with a matching sequined dress, sheer and tulle drama gowns, a lustrous one-armed-sleeve dress with a mythological air, lady suits, black dresses, some more refined, some more sultry, and long chic coats, de la Renta's talent for balancing two things that have long been seen as opposites was on full display.

Spring/Summer 1991

For Spring/Summer 1991, more pastels entered the summer scene for de la Renta's clientele, from a sleeveless floor-length peach evening gown to a sleeveless avocado green empire waist dress.

But there was also room for vibrancy. Whether in a hot pink bubble jacket with matching skirt and choker, a floor-length red gown with a square neckline, or a flowing yellow sleeveless dress. 

Spring/Summer 1992

The softness of pastels was still present in the Spring Summer 1992 collection, whether in Naomi Campbell's peach dress with a matching fringed coat, or in Linda Evangelista's similar outfit in baby pink.

But glamour still showed up, this time in a dress with a green bodice and orange skirt that resembled a pineapple.

Fall/Winter 1994

With a somewhat boho vibe, with animal and hippie prints, de la Renta combined the movement with his signature elegance and sophistication.

While Naomi walked in a gold sleeveless dress with a leopard-print bust, Karen Mulder wore a red velvet dress, Shalom Harlow wore a fur hat with a coat in a folk pattern, Yasmeen Ghauri wore a red minidress, a long coat and a black beret, and Carla Bruni wore a black dress with fishnet sleeves.

Fall/Winter 1995

From an orange silk dress to a furry black dress with glitter, excess was at its finest.

Balmain Fall 1995 Couture

Oscar de la Renta showed off the skills he learned in Paris during his time at Lanvin, designing Pierre Balmain's haute couture collection for fall 1995.  Dramatic headpieces dominated the runway, as did sleek black dresses, some with sequins.

In a more experimental move, Oscar de la Renta brought color to ladies' suits, an embroidered jeweled blouse over a tulip skirt, a gold tunic with matching pants and an embedded gold and green grape, and a long-sleeved dress made of layers of corolle satin with gold. The apprentice becomes the master.

Spring/Summer 1997

With warm colors meeting shiny elements and delicate prints, whether in a gold embroidered gown, yellow lady suits, shiny beaded dresses, a green printed chiffon dress, a royal floral brocade jacket with powder blue leather pants and a floral transparent gown, the designer shows that if one wants it, they can have it all. 

Balmain Fall 1997 Couture

With a more eerie feel, echoing the style of Queen Victoria, de la Renta's Fall 1997 collection for the French haute couture house included voluminous hairstyles, fur coats, several styles of black dresses, and glittering gowns.

The royal appeal was enhanced by printed coats with fur trims, black ladies' suits with fuzzy or voluminous hats, gray jackets with matching pants or skirts and hats for the ultimate English lord image, floral gowns with fur trims, a red cape with shiny chains and red velvet pants, and a strapless dress with fur in the pulse and chest, with the model carrying a bouquet. 

Fall/Winter 1998

With a sleeker touch, the Fall 1998 collection featured embroidered capes, black dresses, fur coats, tailored coats à la Jacqueline Kennedy, silk dresses, and tailored pieces.

The most extravagant moments of the show were an off-the-shoulder full-length red gown and a multicolored patchwork jacket with satin pants that combined '90s minimalism with its cool factor. 

Fall/Winter 1999

Starting with feminine suits in neutral shades, the collection gradually transitions to luxurious fur coats. Vibrant colors are introduced in a fuschia coat paired with a yellow turtleneck.

Red then enters the stage, followed by more intense colors, as seen on Naomi Campbell in a Fuschia jacket with fur trim on the hood. Extravagance is on full display with a black tulle skirt with glitter and a dramatic pink silk top, also seen in blue; while refinement returns with chic black and gray dresses.

On a more religious note, models are seen in blouses and dresses with an engraved crucifix or fringe necklaces on the chest - see Naomi in a dramatic red dress with a black and gold crucifix.

Spring/Summer 2000

For a more intense flair, Gisele Bündchen graces the runway in a tropical and vibrant aqua-printed silk bandeau top and printed palazzo pants, and looks like a mango cashmere and silk halter over a green printed silk and cotton shantung shorts are introduced.

For a more subtle, minimalist look, a denim dress and a khaki cashmere and silk beaded sweater set with an ash silk taffeta skirt joined the runway. 

Balmain Spring/Summer 2001 Couture

In a manifestation of sophistication, Balmain's Couture by de la Renta is abundant in the couture factor. From the extravagant and vibrant salmon strapless gown with ruffles and the lilac transparent dress, both paired with matching hats, to the refined lady suits in white and baby blue, the various styles of black dresses, pearl necklaces, and tailored jackets, chic long coats and a cow-printed suit-dress, there is no shortage of intense refinement. 

But for a touch of whimsy and spontaneity, the collection also included a bikini and a short black embroidered set with a ribbon, blouses with bows and ruffles, a lace-embroidered bodysuit with a matching cape, and a robe-like suit that showed ease. Who knew pajamas could be so chic?

Fall/Winter 2001

Oscar de la Renta's Spring/Summer 2001 collection is the ultimate look for any glamorous and eccentric socialite. From Devon Aoki in a violet suede skirt paired with a purple sweater with an ombre fur, to Carmen Kass in a sheer metallic black nightgown, the spotlight is on them.

So when it comes to being stylish in the city while being followed by the paparazzi, a ruffled pale gold skirt, a white fur-embroidered coat, chic suits, sultry and preppy dresses, sophisticated and workmanlike ladysuits, boho printed velvet dresses and a fuzzy skirt can all do the trick.

But also the 70's brass body suit perfect for a party, a red leather dress, evening gowns available with a more shimmery look seen with shiny beading or more polished with a plunging neckline with gold detailing. As for the city extravaganza, the collection's fuschia drama long skirt with a pale gold top with puffed shoulders is here to make you shine. 

Spring/Summer 2003

For Spring/Summer 2003, the clothes emerge as an ode to the designer's Dominican Republic heritage. Standout pieces include gladiator sandals, midi skirts in strong colors and typical patterns, embroidered veils and dresses, floral jackets, a strapless dress in aqua blue with embroidered flowers, dramatic necklaces on plunging neckline blouses, voluminous skirts and the de la Renta's signature lady suits with brooches. 

Spring/Summer 2005

For a perfect summer, the Spring/Summer 2005 collection combines various styles. These include sporty tennis looks, a snowy tulle gown, alluring printed bikinis, fresh silk floral dresses, a cream ribboned princess-like dress, a mysterious black strapless lace one, a strapless à la Barbie hot pink gown with its voluminous skirt, fairy-pixie dresses, and more refined ensembles. At its core, there is everything needed to rock the season in style. 

Fall/Winter 2005

The fall of Oscar de la Renta, although extravagant and attention-grabbing, features more sophisticated and chic looks with neutral and subtle tones. This is seen when coats à la Jacqueline Kennedy in shades such as olive, taupe, and black met fur and leather coats.

Beige skirts and paid pants give place to black and brown tie-dye dresses. More sophisticated dresses emerge in baby blue, rosé, golden, silver, coffee, florals in burnt amber and green shades, and cream tones. The most vivid shade is fuschia, seen in dresses and skirts that elevate the runway. When a red dress appears on the runway, the sleek autumnal conception changes.

As the model walked in a gown with a corseted bodice, one shoulder adorned with woven roses, and a voluminous skirt with magnificent blooms, it became clear to the audience that for de la Renta, the concept of plainness holds no significance. The man is known for making couture-like clothes in ready-to-wear for a reason, after all.

Fall/Winter 2006 

For Fall 2006, the flamboyant colors of Oscar de la Renta's palette meet more rustic and period-like silhouettes. A navy blue dress meets a fitted silhouette which narrows the waist and widens both the skirt and the puffed sleeves.

If someone asked me, I'd say this is something Bella Baxter from Poor Things would wear. But despite the more antique side, elegance is seen in lady suits paired with headscarves, fur coats, and evening gowns.

What a perfect balance between the past and the present. 

Spring/Summer 2011

In what will be called Oscar de la Renta's Secret Garden, floral gowns, airy tulle dresses, ruffles, fringes, flowing dresses, neon yellow frocks, embroidered pieces, orange, turquoise, and avocado green dresses, and voluminous skirts in vibrant greens, yellows, and reds gave life to the runway.