Stem’s SS27 Collection Proves Sustainable Fashion Can Still Surprise Me

I always get excited when a brand makes sustainability feel like part of the design instead of the entire conversation, and that's exactly why I keep coming back to Stem. Their collections never feel like they're trying to prove a point. They just happen to look really good while doing things differently.

For Spring/Summer 2027, the Copenhagen Fashion Week NewTalent designer returned with another collection built around the label's signature zero-waste approach, but this season also introduced something completely new.

The Ganni Collaboration Was My Favorite Surprise

What immediately caught my eye was the collaboration with Ganni. Instead of working with the natural-toned fabrics Stem usually uses, founder Sarah Brunnhuber transformed Ganni deadstock into one-off runway pieces featuring picnic checks, floral jacquards, and even leopard print.

I honestly wasn't expecting to see Stem embrace such bold prints, but it worked. The collection still felt unmistakably Stem, just with a little more personality and color than we're used to seeing.

Knowing the fabrics already existed somehow made the pieces feel even more special. It wasn't about making something new from scratch. It was about giving beautiful materials another life.

The Fringes Aren't Just Decorative

One of my favorite things about Stem is that the details actually have a purpose.

The brand's zero-waste weaving system creates garment panels directly on the loom, connected by loose woven sections. Once everything is assembled, those connectors become the signature fringes that appear throughout the collection.

I love that something which would normally be considered waste becomes one of the brand's most recognizable design features. It feels clever without feeling overly technical, and you don't need to understand the process to appreciate how beautiful the clothes look.

This Feels Like A Big Step Forward

SS27 also marks Stem's second season in Copenhagen Fashion Week's NewTalent programme, and it really feels like the brand is growing into its place on the schedule.

Alongside the Ganni collaboration, Stem also partnered with Camper on the footwear, while continuing to experiment with new materials, including synthetic fibers for the first time. It feels like Sarah Brunnhuber is pushing the brand into new territory without losing the thoughtful approach that made it stand out in the first place.

For me, that's what makes Stem so exciting. The innovation never overshadows the clothes. Instead, it quietly makes them even more interesting.