Maria Grazia Chiuri’s Legacy at Dior

Maria Grazia Chiuri has stepped down from her role as Dior’s Creative Director of womenswear after nearly a decade at the helm. 

The feminist Italian designer made history as the first woman to lead the storied French house since its founding in 1946. Over the years, she has not only redefined Dior’s aesthetic but also reshaped what fashion can say about identity, womanhood, and power. 

As the industry prepares for Dior’s next chapter, we’re taking a moment to look back at some of Chiuri’s most notable moments.

The Feminist Tee That Started It All

Chiuri’s debut collection in Spring/Summer 2017 made her intentions crystal clear. The standout piece? A plain white cotton T-shirt printed with the title of Chimamanda Ngozi Adichie’s essay We Should All Be Feminists. 

It was worn on the runway, across magazine covers and seen on celebs from Rihanna and Natalie Portman. It was a simple white cotton tee, but cemented her commitment to putting feminism front and centre (literally). 

Jennifer Lawrence’s Moment at Cannes

Since her return to Hollywood, Jennifer Lawrence has undergone a quiet fashion renaissance, particularly evident in her appearance at the Cannes Film Festival. 

In 2023, Lawrence wore a striking red Dior gown paired with a matching shawl, custom-designed by Maria Grazia Chiuri. The look was elegant, confident, and reminiscent of her 2011 Oscars Calvin Klein dress, but with a new maturity. 

The Dior Book Tote: Function Meets Fashion

Among Chiuri’s most commercially successful contributions is the Book Tote. Easily customisable and available in a wide range of colours, prints and embroideries, it became an instant street-style hit. 

The canvas versions, in particular, highlighted the house’s craftsmanship. Spotted on everyone from Bella Hadid to Jessica Alba, it became more than just an accessory. It proved fashion could be both luxurious and genuinely useful.

A Roman Farewell

Maria Grazia Chiuri’s final bow at Dior took place where it all began, in Rome. The Fall/Winter 2025 collections were shown in the gardens of the Villa Albani Torlonia. 

With flowing silhouettes, intricate embroidery and nods to Italian craft, it was a graceful celebration of Chiuri’s heritage and her signature approach to modern femininity.

The Saddle Bag’s Comeback

Originally introduced by John Galliano in 1999, the Dior Saddle Bag was revived by Chiuri in 2018. She didn’t just bring back a classic; Chiuri reimagined it for a new generation, blending its iconic shape with fresh prints and modern details.

The relaunch wasn’t just about nostalgia but a nod to fashion’s cyclical nature. The Bag went from cult status to wardrobe staple almost overnight, instantly recognisable and endlessly versatile. 

Not Without Controversy: “Peg the Patriarchy”

While many of Chiuri’s designs were hailed as empowering, not all hit the mark. One notable misstep was the “Peg the Patriarchy” look worn by Cara Delevingne to the 2021 Met Gala. 

The piece, meant to be a bold feminist statement, instead sparked backlash for its lack of context and the erasure of its original creator, Luna Matatas, a queer woman of colour. The moment raised important conversations about authorship, appropriation and the limits of performative feminism in luxury fashion.

A powerful reminder that meaningful empowerment isn’t just about slogans or spectacle but about context and accountability.