John Galliano’s Legacy At Margiela
The end of an era.
John Galliano is stepping down from his role as Creative Director at Maison Margiela. The British fashion designer announced his departure from the Paris-based label on Instagram after ten transformative years.
Galliano was appointed as Creative Director in 2014, marking his return to the fashion industry following a hiatus after his controversial exit from Dior in 2011.
A Decade of Transformation and Innovation
“John made it the most cutting-edge couture house in the world,” said Renzo Rosso, chairman of Italy’s OTB Group, which owns Maison Margiela. Rosso praised the last decade as one of “incredibly intense work, amazing shows and installations, and extraordinarily beautiful products,” stating that Galliano’s leadership had laid the foundations for the brand’s future.
In his farewell letter, Galliano expressed deep gratitude to Rosso for giving him a second chance. “The greatest, most precious gift he gave me was the opportunity to once again find my creative voice when I had become voiceless,” he wrote. “My wings mended, ten years later, I am forever grateful for this safe space to create and his undying support.”
Reinventing Margiela: Galliano’s Legacy
During his tenure at Maison Margiela, Galliano brought his signature theatrical flair and innovative designs to the brand, merging his creative vision with Margiela’s avant-garde ethos. This fusion resulted in some of the most impactful collections in recent fashion history.
Galliano’s debut collection for the Spring/Summer 2015 season marked the beginning of his exciting journey with the house. Despite initial doubts about his appointment, the collection was a success, showcasing his exceptional tailoring and craftsmanship. Highlights included deconstructed tuxedos, intricate gowns, and a finale featuring masked models—a nod to Martin Margiela’s penchant for anonymity and disguise.
A Fitting Farewell: The Spring/Summer 2024 Artisanal Collection
Galliano’s final show for Maison Margiela, held in January, was the Spring/Summer 2024 Artisanal Collection. The presentation was a theatrical masterclass, featuring exaggerated proportions, puppet-like movements, and porcelain-inspired makeup by Pat McGrath.
The collection encapsulated Galliano’s ability to blend Margiela’s signature elements with his own dramatic sensibilities. Nostalgic yet modern, the show echoed his iconic work from the 1990s at Dior while distinctly modern.
What’s Next for Galliano and Margiela?
With Galliano’s departure, the industry is left speculating about both his future and Margiela’s next steps. A successor has yet to be announced, and Galliano has remained quiet about his upcoming plans, although rumors of a potential return to Dior have been swirling.
“The rumours… Everyone wants to know, and everyone wants to dream. When the time is right, all will be revealed,” Galliano teased in his letter. “For now, I take this time to express my immense gratitude. I continue to atone and will never stop dreaming.”