How Devon Aoki Became Late ‘90s and Early 2000s Favorite Girl
Despite appearing in cult-like movies, nothing quite compares to her achievements in fashion.
Dubbed one of the most iconic figures of the late 90s and early 2000s, Devon Aoki has always known how to make an impact. From her cult-like role as Suki in Fast and Furious 2 to Dominique in D.E.B.S., she has quite the acting résumé. But so did fashion.
Walking for the likes of Chanel, Moschino, Marc Jacobs, Versace, and Celine, Aoki became one of the most legendary models of an era and continues to dazzle audiences to this day – see her in Acne Studios' Spring/Summer 2023 campaign or stepping out on the Met steps dressed by Jeremy Scott in nothing less than a mermaid dress with a white bodice with wings emerging from the bust for the 2023 Met Gala "Karl Lagerfeld: A Line of Beauty."
While her red carpet and campaign moments continue to impress, nothing quite compares to her iconic runway appearances in the late 90s and early 2000s. With her cool demeanor, stunning runway presence, and even more impressive sartorial sense, Aoki became the girl of the moment. But how did she do it?
Born to former Olympic wrestler and Benihana restaurant mogul Rocky Aoki and jewelry designer Pamela Hilburger in New York City – but raised between California and London–, Aoki began modeling at age 13 after being spotted at a Rancid concert, then shooting a story for Interview magazine. Rumor has it that iconic model Kate Moss – presented by her godmother – introduced her to an agency called Storm. From there, Aoki quickly became part of the daily fashion lexicon.
From being photographed by Nick Knight for Visionaire in an extraterrestrial look in 1997 to starring with Kate Moss in the "Kowalski" music clip that same year, her life was about to change. She made her runway debut later that year, but it was only in 1998 that she cemented her presence on the runway walking for Chanel.
“They were about to send me away (I’d shown up with my school backpack),'' she said in an interview with Vogue Australia. But then former creative director Karl Lagerfeld saw something in her. At just sixteen years old, she was already Lagerfeld's newest muse and one of the most sought-after models of the time, walking for the likes of Thierry Mugler, Fendi, Givenchy, and Jean Paul Gaultier.
Although Aoki did not lack talent, her unique appearance – half Japanese, half German, and half British – was by far her standout attribute. But because of her heritage as a mixed-race person and her petite frame (only 5 '4), she had no idea she would be so successful.
"I always thought models had to fit a certain mold. I never thought I had what it takes. I'm too small, and my look's pretty weird. I don't fit the status quo," she told Susannah Frankel for the Independent in 1999. However, what it takes, she had – i.e. the confidence, the poise, and the cool aura that every model exudes when she poses for an editorial or struts down the runway.
Always very versatile, especially on the catwalk, Devon Aoki could pull anything – from punky looks to delicate ones. For instance, in Chanel's Fall/Winter 1999 Haute Couture show, she walked the runway twice – first in a cute fuzzy lilac sweater and skirt paired with huge pom-pom earrings, and then as the Chanel bride, closing the show in a badass white hooded cape with her hair in a pink mohawk.
As for Hussein Chalayan Spring/Summer 1999 ready-to-wear, she donned sleek chic yet abstract dresses in black and white with sheer bands in her head. Less punky, less minimalist, Aoki walked in Fendi's Fall/Winter 1999 ready-to-wear collection in an extravagant and sophisticated fur coat and sequined bronze bag for the ultimate Mob Wife look.
But her ability to transform didn't stop there. From Jean-Paul Gaultier's Spring/Summer 1999 ready-to-wear collection, where she wore a long, hippie flower-patterned dress with removable sleeves and an antique rose wrap, to Thierry Mugler's Spring/Summer 1999 ready-to-wear collection, in which she donned a fairy-like, see-through blue dress with one ruffled sleeve and a blue flower in her hair, Aoki proved to be a true fashion chameleon.
Switching from ready to wear to couture season in the blink of an eye, her fashion appearances only continued to grow. Walking for Comme des Garçons Spring/Summer 2001 in a distorted red and white suit, for Marc Jacobs Spring/Summer 2001 in a blue midi skirt with a white shell print belt, a lilac ivy cap and a strapless purple top with a pink stripe down the chest, her It factor was never lacking – only thriving.
Seen strutting for more labels like Issey Miyake Fall/Winter 2002-2003 in a slip dress and a metallic green dress à la warrior, in Loewe Fall/Winter 2002-2003 wearing a chic fur coat and pants, in Blumarine Fall/Winter 2002-2003 in a sheer pink dress embellished with crystals and embroideries, and starring in magazines such as Ocean Drive Magazine, Numéro Tokyo, and various editions of Vogue, Aoki kept up with her reputation as a fashion legend.
Even when starring in the hit film Fast and Furious 2 as driver Suki, that status hasn't changed. Praised for a pure 2000s look that included a pair of pink leather ripped pants and a layered pink and lilac top, Aoki's character has become a favorite Halloween costume among millennials and Gen Z and has captured the attention of many fashionistas alike.
Ultimately, she caught the eye of none other than Jeremy Scott. From Scott's Spring/Summer 2001 where she transformed into Ariel in a Little Mermaid-inspired look to Fall/Winter 2002-2003 in a purple geometric lady-suit, Aoki became the bold designer's ultimate muse. Even when she retired from the fashion world in 2009 to become an actress – then to have more time with her kids–, she continued to collaborate with Scott – from walking in Moschino's colorful Resort 2017 to his eponymous label's playful Spring/Summer 2018 collection.
Although she was no longer a model, fashion did not leave her. From editorials to designing a capsule collection called Levi's +D, one of her defining traits has always been her sartorial choices.
With a cool and original style that continues to impress people worldwide – she even made the controversial combination of jeans and a dress look good! – Aoki has further established her status as a fashion icon consistently garnering attention for her out-of-the-box Y2K looks. Even today, when asking a fashionista who their fashion inspiration is, most will not say it, but will scream Devon Aoki. And, who could blame them?
Not only is she still a style inspiration for many fashion lovers — and the ultimate inspo for the shorties alike—, but many creative directors and insiders are still inspired by her contributions and presence in fashion. From posing with her daughter Eleanor in the November 2023 issue of Vogue Japan to being the face of the TOY 2 Moschino fragrance campaign while referencing her Little Mermaid-esque look first seen in Jeremy Scott’s Spring/Summer 2001, the model never fails to impress – and influence, of course.
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