Butt Plugs, Distressed Denim and Breaking World Records

Glenn Martens' second show for Diesel proves to be just as jaw-dropping as his first.


Fashion houses often like to send out interesting invites and may even give their guests presents, those who received an invitation from Glenn Martens to attend his sophomore show at the helm of Diesel may have been a bit shocked at the gift they received. Inside the little red Diesel box, that came with the invitations, was a sizeable brilliantly blue glass butt plug. Whilst we can’t be sure of the items link to the collection it’s safe to say both are rather stimulating. 

Before the 5000-strong audience even saw the clothes they got to witness a Guinness world record being broken in the shape of the biggest-ever inflatable sculpture sitting atop the catwalk. The sculpture, in true Glenn Martens style, depicted figures intertwined sensually depicting an orgy, because why not? Among the 5000 people in the audience was It-girl of 2022 Julia Fox wearing a blue leather jacket and matching mini skirt tied together with wet-look blue streaked hair. Fox let it slip that she “may be on the mood board” for the collection and upon seeing the designs this wasn’t a surprise.

Martens described the collection as being divided into four chapters: denim, utility wear, pop and extravaganza. Martens stated “This is my recipe for Diesel, the four ingredients that I insist upon”, and boy did he serve a Michelin star-worthy feast for our fashion-loving eyes. 

The denim section proved the brand's expertise still lies in the fabric, which was demonstrated in a range of washes and treatments. We saw denim that was reverse – sun faded, denim jersey, flocked denim, fringed denim and knit denim. There was a trend across the collection with an element of distressed denim and fabrics. Diesel’s founder, Renzo Rosso, was the first person to commercialise distressed denim in the ’70s and Martens used this to inspire his work for SS23. The ripped-at streetwear looks particularly resembled what Gen-Z would look like if they found themselves in a ‘Walking Dead’ situation, and that might not be far off what Martens was going for after all the world is apocalyptic through the eyes of today's youth.

The latter half of the show saw splatters of colour in the form of acid-toned spaghetti strap slips and the return of the Insta famous Velcro fastened mini skirt, this time in a metallic silver shade. There was also a twist on the Velcro skirt in the form of lime green delicate ruffles escaping out of the bottom of the croc leather look mini. 

The devils in the details at Diesel with delicate floral frays, diamanté chains and the way in which the D logo is interwoven into the clothes. In some cases, the metal D appears on bags, boots, chests and sleeves, but the most eye-catching of them all was its use just below the button and above the crotch on a pair of jeans. Scandalous and stimulating! 

The show's final looks brought the explosive “extravaganza” to the runway with boucle coats and boob tubes made from tufted and torn Diesel-print fabric and in the finale a logo-printed maxi skirt just to remind us Diesel is the name on everyone’s lips during ‘Milan Fashion Week’.

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