Alexander McQueen Explores Humanity For SS23

The Spring/Summer 2023 collection debuted after being rescheduled for London Fashion Week.


Within a massive transparent bubble in the middle of the gardens of the Old Royal Naval College was the Alexander McQueen Spring/Summer 2023 runway show. Titled “First Sight,” Creative Director Sarah Burton took inspiration from the idea of consciousness and humanity. Throughout the collection there’s a clear focus on reworked silhouettes and unique tailoring.

The show began with a model walking in a black asymmetrical dress featuring a massive eye donned across the bodice. As the collection progressed, the same eye print was highlighted multiple times. Burton’s choice of incorporating the specific facial feature followed the theme of humanity and a human’s expression of emotion. 

"This collection is about searching for humanity and human connection. The eye is a symbol of that humanity, a register of emotion, an expression of uniqueness," Burton explains in a statement. "Our clothes are designed to empower. They are stripped back, dissected and focused on cut, drape and silhouette. We also looked at the work of Hieronymus Bosch, at once dark and beautiful.”

The collection stuck to a simple base color palette of black, red, blue, white and orange with a play on unique features such as spliced cutouts, flared tulle, creative necklines and interesting proportions. There’s also colorful patterning intertwined throughout the show inspired by artistic motifs from Hieronymus Bosch. The stitched embroideries representative of the Dutch painter’s work can be appreciated among the draped gowns and form fitted catsuits. The show ended on a breathtaking note as white slashed gown graced the catwalk and brought the collection to full circle.

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