SS23 Proves That The Miu Miu Moment Is Far From Over
Miuccia Prada makes ordinary fabrics extraordinary for Paris Fashion Week.
Projected on the walls of the Palais d’léna were sharks bouncing from one planet to the next. Alexa Chung perched on an enlarged cable wire, and so too was Yoona Lim. The Miu Miu spring/summer 23 show opened with layers upon layers of greige T-shirts. The garments alone were ordinary, yet when styled together, they were anything but. On the final day of Paris Fashion Week, Prada’s bratty little sister found splendor in simplicity.
“This is not an easy moment to create fashion,” Mrs. P wrote in the show notes. “For this collection, I wanted to explore the purpose of fashion, its reason. Its usefulness in society and in culture today. I am not anti-luxury, but I am anti-ostentation.”
The show, which was soundtracked by spoken-word poetry, reveled in austere fabric and a subtle palette, save for the occasional neon leather boots. The banal was made decorative through the layering of silks, cashmeres, and cottons. The classic garments of the last two seasons - suits, blazers, skirts - were re-executed in stone-washed leather and bruised denim. Nylon parkas with drawstrings were worn to be performatively scanty, while chiffon skirts bore humble embellishments.
Miu Miu’s now-signature mini skirts were reiterated, this time with bulky and protruding pockets that suggested utilitarian functionality. Ditto for the bandeau top fastened by plastic clip buckles, and the leather belt bags that were worn not as an accessory, but as an intrinsic part of the garment. Models, including Bella Hadid and FKA Twigs, were sent down the runway in squarely-cut fabrics that were fashioned into ponchos, mid-length skirts, and dresses using drawstrings.
“I am interested in the notion of translation - how to translate a feeling, a mood, a concept, into an object,” wrote Mrs. P. “This collection is about fashion born from reality, and born for reality, to be placed back into that context. Because times are difficult, it does not mean we should not create. But we have to ensure every piece has purpose and reason. This is not a time for meaningless fashion.”
Find out more about the collection at Miumiu.com.