What Can We Expect from Haider Ackermann's Tom Ford?
Back in the runways soon.
Known for his studies at the Royal Academy of Fine Arts in Antwerp – the birthplace of the Antwerp Six – his internship at Dior during Galliano's tenure, running his eponymous label until 2020, his Berluti days, and his recent collaboration with Jean Paul Gaultier at Spring 2023 Couture, the Colombian-born French designer Haider Ackermann is a name to be reckoned with in the industry. So when news broke on X (formerly Twitter) that he would be replacing the recently departed Peter Hawkings at Tom Ford, fashionistas' hearts leapt with a sense of excitement.
"It is with tremendous pride that I will seek to honor the legacy of Tom Ford, a man I have long admired and have the utmost respect for," Ackermann said in a September 4 statement. His debut collection will be Fall/Winter 2025, next March.
Which brings up the question: What can we expect from Haider Ackermann's Tom Ford? Everything, perhaps. While the luxury label Tom Ford is known in the fashion realm for a bold demeanor and provocative style, Ackermann has already demonstrated his ability to incorporate a designer's codes into his own – as seen in Jean Paul Gaultier's Spring 2023 Couture.
Both Ford and Ackermann have very different approaches to design – the former is full of sultry glamour while the latter has a skillfully tailored, sleek elegance. But they also share some similarities. From both being inspired by the work of legendary designer Yves Saint Laurent and norm-rupture to finding the perfect balance between sensuality and austerity in their creations, one could say this is a match made in heaven.
Originally from Bogotá, Colombia, and adopted by a French family, Ackermann has a rich repertoire as his father worked as a cartographer, which required the family to travel the world, observing various cultures. Countries such as Ethiopia, Algeria, Chad, and the Netherlands were some of his homes. And it was the contact with the world and various life experiences that shaped his own vision of fashion.
A true colorist, Ackermann's technique is vibrant. But also sharp. Whether through his eponymous label, which operated until 2020, or as a darling of designers such as Karl Lagerfeld, John Galliano, and Martin Margiela, Ackermann is a true visionary who has won a legion of fans around the world, from fashionistas to Hollywood stars like Tilda Swinton.
Between recent gigs at Maison Ullens, Fila, and an ongoing collaboration with Canada Goose, where this year will see the launch of Ackermann's first capsule as creative director, the designer has been in a period of artistic wandering. But now he's found the right destination.
That's what Tom Ford himself believes, at least. In a recent statement, Ford, who founded his eponymous label in 2005 and stepped down in 2023, has expressed his enthusiasm for Ackermann's era. "I have long been a great fan of Haider's work. I find both his womenswear and menswear equally compelling," stated Tom Ford, adding, " He is an incredible colorist, his tailoring is sharp, and above all he is modern. We share many of the same historical references, and I could not be more excited to see what he does with the brand."
Magic, he'll do. According to Tom Ford President and CEO Guillaume Jesel, “He draws on his deep affinity for global culture and the arts to create arresting fashion and memorable emotional connections.” With a positive response from fashion enthusiasts, industry professionals, and the luxury brand's team, Tom Ford, known for its elegance, mystique sensuality, precision, and contemporary aesthetic, seems to be a well-suited match for Ackermann's design ethos. It will be unusual, but it will be refined. Again, a heavenly match.
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