Thom Browne Fall 2024: The Most Daring Couture
Muslin takes center stage.
Thom Browne's latest collection at Paris Couture Week for the Fall 2024 season marked a distinctive shift from his known aesthetic to a celebration of muslin—a fabric fundamental to the couture process. In a bold departure from his usual gray flannel, Browne transformed the nave of Les Arts Décoratifs into a serene tableau of beige, where every surface was swathed in muslin, setting the stage for a deeply immersive experience.
The collection showcased muslin in its raw, unadulterated form, with garments primarily constructed as toiles, typically initial prototypes in couture. Browne elevated these toiles to finished pieces, making a statement about the beauty in the bare bones of garment crafting. Each piece was a dialogue in dressmaking—visible basting, exposed padding, and prototype embroideries celebrated the usually hidden underpinnings of fashion's finest creations.
One standout piece was a skirt meticulously adorned with an array of covered buttons, demonstrating the potential for intricacy in simplicity. Another high point was an opening coat, the result of 20,000 hours of hand-beading, crafted to emulate a seersucker texture, showcasing Browne's commitment to craftsmanship and detail.
The collection also carried an athletic spirit, an homage to the upcoming 2024 Paris Olympics, blending historical and contemporary sports references. This theme came alive with details like laurel leaf embroideries and apparel featuring silhouettes inspired by ancient Greek statues, juxtaposed with modern interpretations such as heels equipped with running cleats.
Amidst the minimalist backdrop, the show took a dynamic turn with the pulsating beats of Kraftwerk’s "Tour de France," which infused the presentation with an air of anticipation and movement. Browne continued to explore and push the boundaries of traditional silhouettes with oversized coats and peacoats enriched with textural embroideries, alongside more streamlined forms that traced the contours of the body with anatomical precision.
Thom Browne's Fall 2024 collection was not just a display of fashion but a narrative on the process, craft, and evolving nature of couture, serving as a reminder of the meticulous artistry that lies at the heart of high fashion.
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