Matthew M. Williams Launches Eponymous Label At PFW

Matthew M. Williams is back—this time on his own terms. The former creative director of Givenchy and founder of 1017 ALYX 9SM will debut his long-awaited eponymous label during Paris Fashion Week Men’s, with a coed presentation scheduled at the Seiya Nakamura showroom from June 26 to July 1, 2025. This move marks a clean break from the high-pressure pace of heritage houses and a return to the roots of thoughtful, quality-driven design.

The new label signals a tonal shift for Williams. Rather than tapping into the streetwear momentum that defined his ALYX era, or the dark opulence of his Givenchy collections, this new direction centers on technical precision, superior fabrications, and a global supply chain built on trust. The upcoming spring 2026 collection leans into restrained tailoring and soulful garment archetypes, sourced from partners including a denim mill in Japan, a jersey specialist in the U.S., and a handmade footwear atelier in Spain. It's less about hype—more about construction.

Rewriting the Fashion Playbook

Williams is personally financing the label, a signal of independence in an industry increasingly driven by corporate capital. His decision to take his time, ditch seasonal excess, and focus on fabrication rather than spectacle reflects the same control he's exercised across his two-decade career—from working with Lady Gaga and Kanye West to designing stagewear for Beyoncé. “There’s a soul to garments that are well made,” he recently told WWD, underscoring his intent to build something lasting.

The Seiya Nakamura showroom itself is telling. Known for curating next-generation luxury and avant-garde names like Craig Green and Taiga Takahashi, it's a fitting stage for Williams’ quiet reinvention. With buyers expected from around the world, the debut will place his label alongside a cohort pushing the boundaries of menswear and coed fashion alike.

From Alyx to Autonomy

At 1017 ALYX 9SM, Williams helped define post-hype utilitarianism with rollercoaster buckles and industrial leatherwork. At Givenchy, he brought a sharper, more angular silhouette to the maison. Now, his solo project seems determined to blend those aesthetics into something slower, more deliberate—and deeply personal. He’s scaling back the speed, sharpening the product, and betting on longevity instead of virality.

With no show theatrics planned, no merch drops hyped, and little press beyond the showroom invite, Williams’ return stands as a quiet act of rebellion against fashion’s churn. But if early buzz is any indication—fans and insiders are already lighting up social media with tags like #MatthewMWilliams and #PFW—he may just be stepping into his most powerful era yet.