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LUEDER's "THE SHELL": A Dystopian Dive Into Self-Expression

Voyeurism, surveillance, and modern identity.

POSTED BY ZOE TYLER

LUEDER’s latest collection, THE SHELL, dropped at INTERVENTION III during Berlin Fashion Week, and it’s nothing short of a mind-bending journey into dystopian drama and extravagant fantasy. This season, designer Marie takes a hard look at modern existence through a lens of voyeurism, surveillance, and self-expression—delving deep into the emotional and psychological layers that define our times.

Drawing inspiration from the rich traditions of ex-voto art and 19th-century tapestries, THE SHELL transforms classic historical elements like elaborate curtains and carpet prints into an edgy, underground aesthetic. Imagine a runway that feels like a derelict, possibly haunted castle: custom carpets from Pointex decked out with stark black-and-white images of LUEDER’s community—part mugshot, part spectral apparition—set the stage. Overhead, three grand chandeliers by Tym Novikov refract laser light into an upside-down rose motif, hinting at a distorted reality where nothing is quite as it seems.

The sound design, crafted by Simon Parris, adds to the immersive experience with a ticking clock that mimics a heartbeat, the low hum of drones, and a haunting, androgynous acapella that underscores the surreal atmosphere of the show. In THE SHELL, Marie explores 21st-century archetypes—from hooligans to decadent romantics to undead teenagers—melding these characters into a narrative of transformation. It’s a bold statement on shedding old armor to embrace raw, unfiltered self-expression, challenging us to reimagine what it means to be both vulnerable and powerful.

Embracing Berlin’s reputation as a haven for artistic innovation, LUEDER has created a collection that’s as much a social commentary as it is a fashion statement. THE SHELL invites you to question the conventional, to see beauty in the imperfect, and to step boldly into a future where the past and the present merge into something extraordinary.

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