Jean Paul Gaultier Fall 2024 Couture: Sensual Minimalism at its Finest

Thanks to Nicolas Di Felice.

POSTED BY EMMA FISHER

After Jean Paul Gaultier retired in 2020 following an illustrious career revered by many, the label's couture collections have been crafted each season by a different designer. If we look back at other collections, Simone Rocha infused hers with a coquette motif while Glenn Martens experimented with the core components of Gaultier to provide his own twist on what consumers love. 

For their latest Couture range for Fall/Winter 2024, the artistic director of Courrèges, Nicolas Di Felice, was chosen. He is famously adored for his seductive minimalism, which was ever present within this showcase.

 

 

Held at Jean Paul Gaultier’s headquarters on Rue Saint-Martin, the show opened with an all-black draped trench dress with a wide collar and a veil that covered the model adorned in it from the eyes to the toes. Soon after, a shorter leather version of this look with a similar veil to maintain balance was shown to guests with a flowing black column dress adorned with a long train and a neckline that stopped just before the model's eyeline. 

Other looks were centered on the corset, a trend we are seeing all over the runway and high street these days, no thanks to popular period drama streaming online, paired with elements of lingerie and transparent materials. What did we say about Di Felice's love for sensual minimalism?

 

 

However, if sensual clothing is not your thing do not worry. The collection spanned from modest to revealing alongside dark to light. Looks had high, dark necklines fixed to corsets while others included dresses that peeled at the hips and transparent, plastic tube dresses. 

In a rather remarkable turn of events, Di Felice referenced and used inspiration from the archives of the Les Touristes Japoneses au Louvre from the spring of 1999, Constructivism from the fall of 1986, and Women Among Women from the fall of 1989.

 

 

Each look was bold and beautiful - classy where necessary and sexy elsewhere. It is the collection that makes you wonder if one day Di Felice will be snapped up by Gaultier for their creative designer role. If this Couture range is anything to go by, he's made for the job. 

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