Has Valentino Gone Too Far?
The internet is divided on their latest 2025 Resort collection.
Alessandro Michele, the former creative director of Gucci from 2015 to 2022, joined Valentino on April 2, 2024. He famously revived Gucci’s popularity with his bold and maximalist designs adored by consumers. While it was expected that he would take Valentino on a similar trajectory, nobody expected it to be this soon.
There was a three-month turnaround on Valentino’s Resort 2025 collection, titled “Avant les Débuts,” which contained 171 men’s and women’s ready-to-wear looks, plus 93 images of shoes and accessories.
Michele originally planned to launch the collection directly into stores in October but decided to launch earlier, explaining, “It’s all about sharing, so to keep the collection somehow hidden from view wouldn’t have felt right. This is a beginning born out of love—it wants to be brought to light and be seen and shared.”
However, the collection has caused quite a stir. Critics on social media do not believe that any collection, debut or not, should contain so many looks, especially ones dubbed “Vucci” for being too similar to Michele’s past designs at Gucci.
It is important to consider that while the collection is full of signature designs previously seen at Gucci, the Italian designer has tasked himself with the challenge of evolving Valentino to honor its past while celebrating the present to establish the brand’s future.
His layering, bold patterns and prints, gender fluidity, vintage hallmarks, and maximalist accessories were scattered throughout the 2025 Resort collection. Also present were nods to Valentino’s past. The cooler color palette embraced greens and oranges to subtly reference the ’70s chic of Valentino, while signature Michele ruffles added a classic touch.
A standout of the collection is the cream polka-dotted dress, a nod to the red polka-dotted dress of the Valentino Alta Moda Spring/Summer 1988 collection. Elsewhere, the cheetah print motif is a homage to ’80s Valentino and is a delightful addition to a whimsical collection.
Leaning into trends, Valentino’s bedazzled bows were featured among the various accessories available to customers. A trend that perhaps should be embraced more by others is Michele’s gender-fluid style. The collection is adorned with straight-shaped menswear and womenswear, accessories, and a range of styling options for any gender.
Were 171 looks necessary? Perhaps not. But to discredit Alessandro Michele seems too far, doesn’t it? This is just the beginning of what looks to be a promising partnership and future for Valentino.
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