Guide to Identifying Natural Fabrics

As Christmas approaches, many stores delight customers with big discounts. Black Friday and sales can sometimes overshadow careful judgment and lead to the purchase of low-quality goods. Today, we will discuss how to distinguish natural fabrics from synthetic ones, and also explore which synthetic materials can serve as a good alternative to more expensive fabrics.

Synthetic or not synthetic, that is the question

A key factor in identifying synthetic fabrics is their moisture absorption. For instance, polyester is not only a very durable and wear-resistant material but also hydrophobic. This property makes it a favorite for producing sportswear. Polyester socks, in particular, are popular for hiking, as they prevent blisters and dry almost instantly after washing.

However, in a store, you are unlikely to test fabrics by wetting them. Moreover, materials like cotton and silk inherently have different properties. Let’s take a closer look at each type of fabric and outline the key principles that will help you avoid being deceived by sellers.

Cotton

Cotton is one of the most widely used natural materials due to its versatility and affordability. Often, viscose is sold as cotton. Viscose is an artificial fabric made from wood cellulose. While it is derived from natural material, it is processed chemically, classifying it as synthetic. Unlike cotton, viscose has a sheen that resembles silk and smoother, more uniform fibers, whereas cotton tends to have a rougher texture—though this may depend on the finishing.

Another imposter is polyester. Compared to cotton, polyester is smoother, sometimes "slippery," and feels colder to the touch. Its surface is uniform, without any roughness, and it often has a grayish tint when dyed, which can make the fabric look "dirty." Additionally, with prolonged use, polyester tends to form small fabric pills, a trait especially noticeable in clothes forgotten at the back of your closet.

Linen

Distinguishing linen from synthetics is relatively simple. Linen has distinct physical properties: it is highly durable, especially when dry, its fibers are stiff, giving the fabric a characteristic texture that may feel slightly coarse, and it has a matte finish with visible natural fibers. If you’re examining a shirt labeled "100% linen," crumple it and listen. If the fabric produces a distinctive "rustling" sound and large creases remain after crumpling, you are likely dealing with natural linen.

Silk

Silk is the most deceptive and expensive material, often substituted with viscose, polyester, satin, or acetate. Some people recommend burning or tearing a piece of fabric to check its authenticity, but there are simpler methods. First, examine both sides of the fabric. Natural silk has no distinct "wrong side" and feels soft on both. When held to the light, you’ll notice its uneven structure and chaotic weave, traits absent in synthetic alternatives. Additionally, rubbing the fabric edges against each other can help: synthetic materials often generate static electricity, while natural silk does not accumulate static or attract dust.

My favorite method, shared by my mother, is not always foolproof but can be fun. All you need is a ring (preferably plain, to avoid snagging the fibers) and the fabric in question. Pass the fabric through the ring. Natural silk will glide through effortlessly due to its smoothness and thinness, whereas counterfeit silk may get stuck or pass with difficulty.

Wool

Natural wool consists of fibers that can felt into dense fabric, effectively retaining heat. To distinguish wool from synthetics, place your hand on the woolen fabric and hold it for 1–2 minutes. If the material is natural, you’ll feel gentle warmth, as wool retains body heat. If no warmth is felt, it’s likely synthetic or contains a low percentage of wool. Additionally, if squeezing the fabric produces a squeaking sound, it’s probably synthetic, as natural wool—be it sheep, camel, or goat wool—does not exhibit this property.

Cashmere

Although cashmere is technically a type of wool, it belongs to a distinct category of fabrics. It is made from the undercoat of mountain goats through combing rather than shearing. Compared to regular sheep’s wool, cashmere fibers are finer and softer (12–16 microns versus 20–30 microns), making it more expensive, lightweight, gentle, and exclusive. Cashmere has a characteristic pleasant scent, reminiscent of wool or goat milk. Notably, cashmere lacks the strong chemical odors often found in synthetic fabrics, so if it smells overly strong or artificial, it could indicate a fake.

Cashmere is rarely dyed in bright colors due to the delicate nature of its fibers and the specifics of the dyeing process. Harsh chemicals used for vibrant colors can damage the fiber structure, making it less soft and more brittle. For this reason, cashmere is usually sold in four natural shades: white, gray, beige, and brown.

When Is It Better to Choose Synthetic Materials?

We tend to associate natural fabrics with quality and comfort, but that is not always the case. In some situations, synthetic materials outperform their natural counterparts like cotton or linen. As mentioned earlier, synthetic fabrics are commonly used for sportswear because they dry quickly, wick moisture effectively, are lightweight, durable, and wrinkle-resistant. Materials like polyester and nylon are often water- and wind-resistant, making them ideal for an active lifestyle. In high-humidity environments, synthetics resist mold and rot, maintaining lightness and comfort. They are also suitable for items requiring high durability, such as backpacks and tents, due to their resistance to abrasion and tearing.

In more specific cases, synthetic fabrics are a better choice when functionality, ease of care, and resistance to external factors are essential. Examples include membrane jackets, synthetic-insulated parkas, raincoats, training T-shirts, and leggings. For everyday clothing, synthetic fabrics are also a cost-effective option. Polyester shirts, dresses, and trousers are cheaper than natural fabrics, easier to wash, dry faster, and retain their color and shape longer. For people with allergies, synthetic materials like microfiber offer a safe solution for bedding and blankets, as they are resistant to dust mites and mold, unlike wool or cotton.

Compression and functional clothing, such as thermal underwear, compression socks, and medical braces, also benefit from synthetic materials like lycra or nylon, which provide the necessary elasticity and durability.