Demna Takes Over Creative Direction At Gucci

Concluding a decade-long reign at Balenciaga where his polarizing approach afforded cultural cachet as well as controversy to the house, Demna Gvasalia is now set to take the helm at Gucci. He will succeed Sabato De Sarno, who assumed the role in early 2023 following Alessandro Michele’s influential seven-year tenure. Demna's move to Gucci raises questions about how effectively his avant-garde sensibilities will converge with the brand’s long-standing focus on opulence and romanticism, or if his tenure there might be short-lived.

Demna at Balenciaga

Demna’s achievements at Balenciaga cannot be understated, as he took the fashion house from niche luxury to a cultural phenomenon with his transformative use of silhouette and shape, propelling the name into the consciousness of an audience that was broader than ever. Balenciaga’s sales quadrupled in the first five years under Demna’s direction, and surged from around £270 million in 2015 to £1.5 billion in 2022.

Despite this upward momentum, the contemporary metamorphosis that Balenciaga underwent under Demna’s direction was criticized for diverging significantly from Cristóbal’s original vision and work. His appointment to the role at Gucci is an audacious decision, and some worry that Demna may steer it towards a modernization that undermines its heritage. Is there a risk of this? Absolutely— but Demna’s uncompromising vision and strong personality are clearly a risk Kering and Gucci are willing to take on for the possibility of the house’s revival, which noted a 20% drop in sales in the first half of 2024 and has been suffering from a confused brand identity split between luxury and discount rack.

What will this new direction look like for Gucci?

If Kering are banking on a repeat of the meteoric rise Balenciaga saw under Demna, this seems unlikely. Following Balenciaga’s 2022 controversy surrounding ill-advised props at a shoot, Demna told Vogue: ‘I will have a more mature and serious approach to everything I release as an idea or an image. I have decided to go back to my roots in fashion as well as to the roots of Balenciaga, which is making quality clothes – not making image or buzz.’ If Demna’s appetite for provocation really has waned, his tenure at Gucci might be more considerate of the house’s rich history of slow craftsmanship and artistry rather than a radical overhaul.

Demna’s final show for Balenciaga will take place on July 9th during Paris couture week.