Celine FW20 – Hedi Slimane’s Rock ‘n’ Roll Show Divides Opinions
Slimane’s 6th collection for the brand was a 70’s unisex display.
“I’m scared to go back to Paris cause I’ve been looking for you” sings the chilled voice of Sofia Bolt singer, Amelie Rousseaux. Hopefully, today at Hedi Slimane’s 6thshow at Celine, the wishful onlookers are not still looking for a certain Ms Philo.
Slimane has well and truly stamped his aesthetic on the Parisian brand – the rock n roll, indie kid, bourgeoisie aesthetic he has been reluctant to stray from throughout his time at Dior and then Saint Laurent. ‘But this is not what Celine is all about’ we hear you cry…well, it is now.
Both male and female models stomped with attitude, looking like the love children of Mick Jagger and Pete Doherty, peering through their 70’s style shag haircuts and bangs. Shrunken velvet blazers were paired with skinny bootcut trousers and topped with the flick of a tasselled scarf. Sequin embellishments and military finishes, including gold buttons and frogging, were seen on jackets, which were worn over romantic ruffle front or pussy bow blouses – yes on the guys too. A few evening looks were thrown in near the end of the show; a black sequin gown with ruffle décolletage stood out amongst the sea of skin-tight trousers, as Slimane showed 111 looks in total. A little diversity in looks would have been welcomed, perhaps not as much as the diversity which was clearly lacking in the choice of models, something which in 2020 is hard to accept or ignore.
However, unisex looks and blurring gender boundaries were a fundamental point for this co-ed show, a first for the brand. Slimane reintroduced the ‘Sulky’ handbag which was a key style for Celine back in 1966 and stated in the show notes “the men’s looks can be for women and vice versa, including the bags”.
Let’s hope this forward thinking continues for the brand and translates to the versatility in models for next season.