Burberry's First Menswear Collection Focuses on Fluidity

Three years on from being appointed Chief Creative Officer of Burberry, the Italian designer chose to create a standalone menswear collection. The collection is a tribute to British eccentricity and style, which Tisci fell in love with when he first moved to London in the 1990s. He reflects upon the collection saying, “the most iconic British gentlemen are the ones who have played with the strengths of masculinity and femininity with eccentricity […] Think of David Bowie, Michael Clark, Leigh Bowery.” 

The collection featured pleated silk skirts and had women modelling the pieces, despite being a menswear collection. Self-expression and gender fluidity were key inspirations for this collection, something many designers are catching onto. Tisci said himself after the show, “fluidity is a really important word to the young generation, they aren’t frightened of it.” We saw classic trench coats stylised and made to resemble – more than anything – dresses. Softening the idea of masculinity.

Introducing the #BurberryAW21 menswear presentation.
A celebration of the freedom of expression, the collection itself is dynamic and young, vibrant and alive. Modern explorers, pioneers and trailblazers are an inspiration. pic.twitter.com/40oW1L5XA2

— Burberry (@Burberry) February 22, 2021

Aside from fluidity and challenging rigid gender norms, the collection is also a nod to the great outdoors. Animal and natural motifs appeared throughout the collection, there were mink and fox fur prints, stars, deer motifs, and shearling rucksacks. Certainly, now many of us dream to be outdoors; instead of cooped up in the same four walls. Models walked the runway with umbrellas, sleeping mats, large boots, and warm layers.

 

 

 

 

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The reveal took place at Burberry’s flagship store on Regent’s Street, with the space redesigned as a maze of blocks at different heights that the models walked over. Tisci said he “wanted to do something [at the store] for a long time”. The choice of using the store was also a nod to fluidity, as one of the inspirations were the innovative exhibitions staged at the New Gallery at 121 Regent Street. However, like all of us, Tisci hopes that in-person shows return next season. “I’m dreaming of doing a catwalk show in Trafalgar Square, or at Buckingham Palace,” he joked.

Next up, Gucci Goes Botanical With Latest Epilogue Collection